Lewes
Three miles east of Coastal Highway (Delaware Rt. 1) you find the sleepy hamlet of Lewes. Originally settled in 1632 by the Dutch as “Zwaanendael” (Valley of the Swans), Lewes is reminiscent of a New England harbor town, with its historic district, a fishing & beach culture and a quiet disposition.
The centerpiece of Lewes is Second Street, lined on both sides with quaint boutiques and restaurants, including King’s Ice Cream, a generations-old local business. Abutting both the harborfront and the Lewes Historical Society grounds, Second Street is a wonderful place to spend time.
North of the harbor and shopping districts is Pilottown Road, named for the river pilots who to this day guide large shipping vessels up the Delaware River and Bay. Pilottown Road winds past a public boat launch, tennis courts, the local Little League fields and then a mile of renovated old homes that overlook the canal before ending at the University of Delaware’s Marine Studies campus, home to Lewes’ “Coast Day” celebration every October.
Across the canal bridge from Second Street is “Lewes Beach,” which encompasses not only the beach, but a few blocks of homes and even a few hotels and businesses. It starts at LHR and Fisherman’s Wharf, where you can find fishing charters or even go on a dolphin-watching cruise, and ends at the public beach (if you find the Dairy Queen, you’re in the right place).
To the north of the public beach is “Old Lewes Beach,” which runs about 20 blocks, all the way to the Lewes Yacht Club at the end of Cedar Avenue. Along Bay Road, you will find multi-million dollar bayfront beach homes, some brand new and some original cottages dating back to World War II. One of the quirks of Old Lewes Beach is that contrary to popular opinion, the beach is public. The way it was explained to me is that the family that owned the beach 200 years ago deeded it to the city with the express covenant that it always be accessible to the public — because the villagers needed to catch their dinner in the surf.
South of the public beach, you find two of Lewes’ most famous “residents” — the Cape May-Lewes Ferry and Cape Henlopen State Park. The ferry terminal sees as many as 14 voyages a day in the height of the summer for the 80 minute trek to New Jersey. Rates for a vehicle and driver range from $28-$41 depending on the season.
Cape Henlopen State Park has year-round trails, a disc golf course, miles of sandy beaches both for sunbathers and surf fishing, a World War II Observation Tower, the Seaside Nature Center, campgrounds and a fishing pier. It is one of the finest state parks anywhere in the country.
In Lewes, you can find a vast array of dining options. There’s Striper Bites, a quaint seafood bistro dressed in woods and nautical decor. Or try The Buttery for a lavish fine-dining experience. Beseme, located in the Hotel Rodney, offers cuisine with an interesting twist. And Half Full does two things and does them very well: gourmet pizza and wine.
If you’re looking to rest your head, check out the Inn at Canal Square, Hotel Blue and Hotel Rodney. If you’re on a budget, check into the Beacon Motel, two blocks from the beach.
Lewes is roughly two hours by car from Baltimore, Washington, D.C. and Philadelphia, three hours from Richmond and less than four from New York City.
